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Seasonal Lawn tasks
January
Try and keep off the lawn, especially when wet or frostyRemove fallen leaves
February
When conditions allow, spike (aerate) any wet areas on the lawn and add some horticultural sharp sandBrush off worm casts on dry days.
Make sure your mower is serviced and ready to go.
Towards the end of the month, if the lawn surface is dry, run the mower over the lawn and "top" it. Setting the cutting height at 25mm.
Do not cut if a frost is forecast in the following days.
Do not roll - in fact don't roll at any time of the year.
March
Start to mow your lawn regularly at a height of 25mm, when the surface is dry. If your lawn contains finer grasses, reduce the height to 15mm.
Never cut your lawn too short - doing this will remove the leaf. Leaves convert sunlight into essential food - cut the lawn too short and you cut its lifeline.
Always keep the blades of the mower sharp. The lawn will turn brown if the grass is not cut cleanly. Always box off your cuttings - cuttings left on the lawn will cause thatch to build up.
Thatch is one of the most common lawn problems and is a continual build up of dead and decaying vegetation that acts like a barrier between the surface and the all important root zone of the grass plant.If you notice thatch, you must rake it out. Hire a mechanical scarifier and make sure you collect the debris.
Apply mosskiller if not done in late winter - moss must be killed off before scarifying.After scarifying it is an ideal time to oversow your lawn with fresh grass seed.
April
Increase the frequency of mowing according to the weather conditions and grass growthFeed your lawn with a spring/summer fertiliser that is high in nitrogen If you have a large infestation of weeds, spray them two weeks after you have fed the lawn - treat the whole lawn rather then trying to pick out individual weeds.Reseed any worn or bare patches.
Try the award winning Lawn Restorer Kit.
May
Continue with regular mowing - this will encourage a denser, thicker grass.
Remember to collect up the clippings. Consider watering in prolonged dry spells.Fertilising with a high nitrogen fertiliser can still be carried out until the end of July at six week intervals.
Continue to rake out any moss or dead material.
June
Continue mowing regularly to a height of 25mmIf you haven't fertilised for six weeks consider another application - lawns will thrive on a good balanced dietControl weed infestations by spraying the whole area, rather than picking out individual weedsWater your lawn if it needs it.
July
Continue mowing regularly to a height of 25mmFertilise if you haven't done so for six weeksControl weed infestationsWater during prolonged dry conditions.
August
Continue mowing and watering.
September
If six weeks have passed since your last summer feed it's time to fertilise again, but this time with an autumn/winter product.
Summer heat may have left lawns in a bad state, so now is a good time to reseed.
Bare patches or worn areas can be scarified (following moss treatment).
Use an autumn pre-seeding fertiliser and re-seed to repair the damage. If worm casts have appeared, scatter them with a brush before mowing.
Later in the month consider spiking your lawn to open up the soil and improve drainage.
This will help stop the lawn becoming waterlogged during the winterCollect fallen leavesContinue to mow as needed, raising the blades slightly.
October
Continue to cut your lawn down to 25mm while the weather stays warm and dryClear fallen leaves - if left they will encourage worm activity and can cause fungal damagePut the leaves on the compost heap or in sacks, punctured with a fork.
They will rot down to provide a rich mulch (leafmould).Spike the lawn again if it's not too wet.NovemberIf the weather is mild a final cut may be necessary - do not mow in very wet or frosty weather.
Apply autumn fertiliserCollect leaves for the compost heap or leafmould.
December
Complete leaf clearance.
Clean and overhaul mowers and other equipment.
Dig over any areas to be seeded in the spring.
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